Amritsar to Lahore is just 55 km, but you have to cross the border into India’s enemy Pakistan if you want to use this part of the Grand Trunk Road. It is the one and only road crossing point between the two nations and its location is highly emotional, as this is the area where in 1947 millions were killed during the migration after partition. Today both countries have built stadiums on their side of the checkpoint to accommodate the more than 10’000 people who regularly attend the martial flag lowering ceremony performed by the armed border forces at sundown since 1959. It is worthwhile watching the video, as only this can give you an impression of the nationalistic frenzy that the ‘cheerleader’ whips up. Going there is an afternoon well spent!